
"Khumbu lies below Mount Everest, called by the Sherpas Chomolongma, literally 'Snow Mother of the World,' and known elsewhere in Nepal as Sagarmatha. From the Khumbu glacier on Everest flows the Imja. This joins the Dudh Kosi and the Bhote Kosi, rising below other glaciers to form the Dudh Kosi which runs southward from below Namche Bazaar and eventually into the Sun Kosi southwest of Okhaldhunga. The Dudh Kosi is so called because of the milky whiteness of its water which contains lime in suspension from the limestone rocks below the mountain glaciers where it rises. The water of the Imja Khola is also milky in appearance but has a beautiful shade of green from the melting ice of the Khumbu glacier."
"These mountain torrents have carved out the stupendous valleys which are such a feature of Khumbu and whose sides are covered with forests of pine, fir and birch up to the tree line at about 4,100 meters (13,500 feet) above sea level. Towering above these valleys are the great mountain peaks, all over 6,000 meters (20,000 feet) in height. To the east are Tramserku and Kangtega, above Thyangboche. To the west above Namche Bazaar are Numbur, Karyolung, Teng Kangpoche and Kongde Ri, while further north are Taweche and the beautiful spire of Ama Dablam, on each side of the Imja Khola. To the north is the huge Everest massif with its guardian wall of Lhotse and Nuptse."
"The deep valley of the Dudh Kosi must be followed by all travelers to Khumbu, and one has to climb out of this valley to reach Namche Bazaar. From there tracks lead to the villages of Khumjung, Thame, Phorche and Pangboche, and to Thyangboche monastery, all of which lie below the great peaks at the upper limit of tree growth. The whole of this region at 3,600 to 4,500 meters (12,000 to 15,000 feet) is known as Khumbu."
Khumbu - Country of the Sherpas - R.G.M. Willan, Chief Conservator of Forests, Nepal
Mt. Everest & Solu Khumbu Trekking
Famous for its spectacular mountain peaks and the loyalty and friendliness of its inhabitants (the Sherpas), the Everest region (Khumbu) is one of the most popular destinations for tourists in Nepal. While many of the routes through the mountains are arduous, there are ample places to rest and enjoy a meal along the way. Furthermore, don't worry about getting lost. Just ask a local the way to the next village on your route, and they will direct you. Most Sherpas under the age of fifty can at least understand basic English, and many speak it fluently.
While trekking is possible in this area the whole year round, the best times to visit are from the beginning of March to mid May and from the beginning of September to mid November. The winters are very cold and snow may make it difficult to travel higher than Tengboche, and also lodges may be closed above this altitude. Summers, on the other hand, are wet, and the spectacular peaks often lost in the clouds. April and early May is a good time to see the hedgerows and trees bursting into bloom, with Rhododendrons, in particular, adding a spectacular splash of color to the landscape. However, dust from the plains of India during the spring routinely provide less than ideal conditions for clear mountain views. The views are much better after the summer monsoons have cleared the atmosphere of dust, but the days are shorter and cooler.
Lodges and restaurants in Khumbu only accept Nepalese rupees. Budget between 1000-1800 Rs per person per day for food and accommodation - prices rise with the altitude, though you may spend more in Namche because there is more on offer.
Do you need a guide and porter for the journey? If you are strong, then a porter is not required, though hiring one does direct well needed cash into the homes of poor families and allows you more flexibility. If you do hire a porter, remember to keep valuables with you. The vast majority of porters are extremely honest, but it only takes one who is not to ruin a vacation! Expect to pay around 400-500 Rs (more if your load is very heavy) a day for a porter's services, and as far as Namche you are not expected to pay for accommodation and meals. However, due to the high price of food and lack of provisions for porters above Namche, meals should be provided. (NB: Namche has a cheap and clean lodge specially for porters). Anyway, ensure that your terms are clear at the time of hiring. This will save trouble later.
Guides are definitely not necessary if you are traveling no higher that Tengboche or Pangboche. Above that, you might consider hiring one. Not only can they guide you on the right path and explain local sights, but can be invaluable should you fall ill. Guides need an official license to operate and speak English (and often other languages - specify your choice when hiring). They command a much higher rate than porters (negotiate), and carrying your bags is not part of their service. Like porters, they will find their own accommodation and meals unless you invite them.
"Here at Everest Base Camp in Nepal the science continues to flourish. It is a strange environment in which to work but after some time you do get used to it. We are living on glacial moraine created by the mighty Khumbu glacier. At night as we try to sleep the only sounds that can be heard are that of the ice creaking and snapping below us and avalanches crashing down the giant rock faces above us. In front of our camp lies the Khumbu ice fall, the tumbling face of the glacier that drains from the Westen Cwm, a snow bowl created in the rock horseshoe of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. In the morning it is somewhere between -5 and -10 oC, by lunchtime inside the laboratories it can reach nearly 20 oC. These conditions are very challenging for both investigators and subjects."
Everest: Logistics in a Harsh Environment - Caudwell Xtreme Everest Expedition
Khumbu is an area for trekking. The trek can be as short as a two day walk from Lukla to Namche Bazaar or an eight to ten day trip to Everest Base Camp. Irrespective of the length of the journey, as there are no roads in the area, it will definitely involve putting on hiking boots and walking the mountain paths. Below is an itinerary from Lukla Airport to Everest Base Camp and all points in between.
DAY ONE - Lukla airport (about US$113 from KTM) to Monju (2800m): Pass directly through the village of Lukla (there is no compelling reason to stop here, though it is a good place to have breakfast/lunch.) and follow the path to Namche. There will no doubt be a string of porters carrying goods up to the Sherpa capital, so the route is easy to locate. The first village after Lukla is Chheplung, and further down the trail, you will pass through Ghat and Phakding. Both these villages have a good selection of lodges and restaurants and are conveniently located for taking a meal break. However, if you still have enough stamina, it is advisable to press on to Monju (about 90 minutes to two hours from Phakding) to spend the night as this will give you a good start for the steep ascent to Namche the following morning.
DAY TWO - Monju to Namche: After passing through the Sagarmatha Park entrance (1,000rs for overseas visitors), the trail passes through the village of Jorsale and then along the river. You will cross two bridges before beginning the steep ascent to Namche, which can take up to three hours to complete. Be aware that there are no tea houses or lodges on this path, so ensure that you have ample water to get you to the top. In addition, you are now heading into a high altitude area, so take it easy. Even the fittest people are prone to altitude sickness.
DAYS THREE & FOUR - Namche Bazaar (3440m): It is recommended to take an altitude acclimatization rest day in Namche. Although no more than a village, the Sherpa capital has two museums, several internet cafes, and, at last count, two pizza houses and three cafes (locally known as bakeries), so there is much to keep you occupied during your stay here. Namche also has two official money changers, so it is a good place to stock up on local currency for the days ahead (NB: Lodges and restaurants in Khumbu only accept Nepali Rupees). There is also a reasonable selection of English books, though the prices are higher than in Kathmandu.
During your acclimatization rest day, you might like to visit neighboring villages. Khumjung (3790m) is over the hill directly behind Namche, and takes about one and a half to two hours to reach. There are several sights in the village (See listings below) and a few lodges and eateries. Khunde is a short walk from Khumjung. Getting there: Take the Tengboche trail, then at the top of the hill above Namche, near the huge mani stone and just past the bank, head straight up the mountain - the wider path to the right goes to Tengboche. After a steep climb, you will arrive at an airstrip. Cross this and rejoin the path at the other side. After a short distance you'll pass a stupa. From there, take the paved path down the hill. Soon you will see the playground and school buildings of Khumjung Hillary School. Thame (3750m) is a more traditional village that is about a two and a half hour to three hour walk from Namche. Getting there: Leave Namche on the path that passes the ochre colored Namche Monastery (Namche Gompa). From here, it is a relatively flat walk that takes in some very pleasant scenery. The first hamlet on the route is 'Phurte,' identified by the forest nursery, and then 'Tesho.' The water that runs through 'Tesho' comes directly from 'Mount Khumbi Yui Lha' - the most sacred mountain to the Sherpas - so there are several retreat huts built into the niches here. 'Thamo' is the next village on the trail, and a good place to take lunch. 'Thame' has a few lodges and is home to one of Khumbu's oldest monasteries. This trail is also the traditional route to Tibet, so don't be surprised to encounter caravans of yaks led by long-haired Tibetan merchants on your walk.
DAY FIVE - Namche to Tengboche (3870m/12696ft): After a short but steep climb out of the village, the path levels off and you can enjoy a few hours of pleasant flat hiking. The first lodges you will pass are at Kyangjuma. Consider taking a break here. The Ama Dablam Lodge has some good food and the sitting area out front offers uninhibited views of Mount Ama Dablam. In addition, the lodge reputedly has the best selection of jewelry for sale in the whole of Khumbu, so if you don't plan to return this way, pick out a few light souvenirs - They will forever remind you of this sun-blessed place and the sparkling snow capped peak of Ama Dablam. After a short while, the trail descends to river level, and you will pass a few hamlets and cross some bridges. Then at the hamlet of Phunki Thanga (marked by its water driven prayer wheels), the trail ascends steeply. There are no tea houses or lodges on this stretch, so take some refreshment here and stock up on water for the one and a half to two hour climb to Tengboche. NB: Take it easy going up here. The air maybe thinner than you are aware!
DAY SIX: For those heading for Everest, the trail passes through the villages of Deboche (here, there is a small nunnery on the left - definitely worth a visit), Pangboche (3860m/12664ft), Dingboche and finally Periche (4240m/13910ft). All these villages offer food and lodgings. Pangboche (especially Upper-Pangboche, where the local monastery is located) is, however, probably the the most pleasant as it is surrounded by trees. So, if you decide to take the journey slowly, this is the best place to rest and relax. For those heading for Island Peak Trek and/or the Lhotse Glacier, your final destination will be Chukhung. As this is further than Periche, you will definitely need to stop the night in Pangboche or Dingboche.
DAY SEVEN: Whether in Periche or Chukhung, you will need to take a day to acclimatize to the high altitude. Take short, slow walks around the village, marvel at the peaks and dig out the book you bought in Namche, but whatever you do, don't push it at this point. If you begin to feel unwell, inform your guide or lodge owner and return as quickly as possible to a lower altitude.
DAYS EIGHT, NINE & TEN - Periche to Lobuche (4930m/16174ft): Spend night in this small village packed with tourists. Lobuche to Gorak Shep (5160m/16929ft): Gorak Shep has a small, usually frozen lake, but little in the way of accommodation (especially during the cold winter months). Therefore, you might want to get an early start, pass through Gorak Shep, visit Everest Base Camp (5380m/17650ft) and Kala Patthar (5643m/18513ft where locations near the peak offer very close, but unbalanced views of Everest) and return to Lobuche to sleep.
SIDE TRIP: The trail via Cho La (5370m) to the wonderful Gokyo valley with its glacier lakes and fine views offers some stunning scenery and is not as crowded as that to Everest.
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